Use the rivet tool to squeeze it into the receiver, making a dimple for the swell neck rivets. Take a 1/4" ball bearing and place it on the rivet hole like so: Make sure to crush the rivets deep enough that the barrel will clear them. Start with the front rivets, then do the middle rivets. These things are pretty easy to use, just keep downward pressure on the rivet and try to keep the jaws level (I got carried away and got one of the rivets a little crooked, not that big a deal, but eh). They're pretty easy to re-sell these days. I tried to grind the jaws myself like shown here, however, after days of picking metal slivers out of my hands and realizing I'd have to buy a ball end mill to make the rivet cup, I decided to just buy the Toth rivet jaws.
AK RIVET BOLT CUTTER MODIFICATION INSTALL
I used the bolt cutter method to install the rivets with some harbor freight 24" bolt cutters. On mine, the holes for the middle rivets didn't line up, but it was close enough, so I just drilled out the hole to the same diameter as the rivet. The swell neck rivets go in the holes closest to the mag well. Place the rivets in the holes to hold the trunnion in position, and tape the ones in on the bottom side. Make sure the front trunnion holes line up. Clamp it close to the center support to avoid squishing the receiver too much. However, I do have a shelf and a bar clamp, so I clamped it to the shelf. Check here to see if you're configuration is legal: GunWiki 7.62x39 Go/No Go headspace guages: Link ($54)įor compliance parts, I'm using a Tapco G2 trigger group (3) US made barrel and receiver (2) and a US made muzzle brake (haven't decided on one yet).Drill press with 7mm end mill (to drill the barrel pin holes).AK-builder trigger guard jig: Link ($75 shipped).Toth tool rivet jaws: Link ($75 shipped).Romanian Parts kit: Link ($250, us made barrel).Also, I'm only building one.stop laughing. If you don't have a press you can make the bolt cutter riveters like in this link.So I wanted to build an AK, but I have no use for a hydraulic press or any of the other gizmos out there people spend hundreds of dollars on. I used a cheap angle grinder with a thin cut off wheel to cut and shape the bolt.īe careful not to get the bolt too hot when grinding, because that will take the temper out of the steel & you will need to get another bolt to start over. You will need to buy a 4" or 5" or longer bolt so you can cut off the threaded part It helps to keep the bolt as short as possible. Here is a sketch showing you how it fits inside the receiver, so you can squeeze the rivets. press you can make a riveter out of a 3/4" grade 8 bolt. To do the center support rivet I turn the bucking plate over & only use the #2 crushing pin to form the head.How do you do the short rivets on the trunnion? Notice the bucking plate on the bottom it has two holes for holding the rivet head, the one that you can see is used for RPKs & Yugos with bulged trunnions the chamfered edge sets next to the bulge. To do the center support rivet I turn the bucking plate over & only use the #2 crushing pin to form the head. The top spacer is open on the front to allow view of the forming rivet.(arrow) It uses this piece of box steel I picked at the scrap yard, a 3/4" bolt with a 5/16" hole through it's axis, & hardened steel 5/16" pins.Įach pin has a little different cup cut in the end of them for various types of rivets, one with tape on it is to align the jig at the start of the process. You can use this with a hammer, air hammer or press with this jig. It is a good jig for builders just getting started because you can go slow as you want & see the rivet head form as you go. I have posted this jig on this forum a few times but I can't find it when I need it so I'll post it again. Here is a variety of a few rifles I've built: I don't have any close ups of the rivets themselves. So far I've done about 50 AK's using this tool. This it tap rapidly as I keep the rivet forming tool moving.įrom start to finish it takes me about five minutes to form a "perfect" rivet that matches the Russian formed other side head. I finish the head using a 6 ounce ball peen hammer. Once I seat the rivet in the rear trunnion,I use my two pound sledge hammer to form the rivet head into the rough shape I want. They do not have to be heated in order to make a nice round head. The rivets I use are of Russian make and are bimetallic. This plate holds the rivet in place and supports the factory formed rivet head in place. I also made a bucking-plate of steel plate that too had the same type of female hole.
I Took my Dremel tool and made a female hole on one end that is the shape of the rivet head I wanted. It is a steel rod that is harder than the rivet. I've been building AK's for 20 years now.
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